Fellow Wine Lovers,
First up, Happy Birthday to Wyclef Jean, Anil Kumble and Eminem – three unlikely musketeers – joined by actors Mathhew Macfadyen and Felicity Jones around a cake holding 257 candles, deep breathes everybody, make a wish…
However, before we get too carried away with celebrating the birthdays of complete strangers let’s first tune up our tiny violins for the Fine Wine Market, specifically the En Primeur aspect of it. We’ve been hearing the rumours for a while now but this was confirmed when we heard some of the findings of the inaugural 67 Pall Mall London Fine Wine Trends Report. Trade rag, Drinks Retailing, reports that the “members were particularly disillusioned with the rising price of En Primeur wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Members noted that they felt prices had been inflated to ‘the point where it no longer makes sense to buy wines on release,’ instead opting to purchase on the secondary market.”
Couldn’t agree more, ordinary punters have been being priced out of the market over the last few years and, as Adam Garforth MW pointed out: “Bordeaux only started being really successful after the 1982 vintage – and that’s only 40 years ago. Before that, they were working like dogs. But since then, they’ve become a bit lazy.” A selling policy that relies on customers FOMO must have a limited shelf life – we ourselves have seen this with one of our suppliers that we buy top end Italian, Spanish and American kit from. We have bought a number of wines from these characters ‘En Primeur’, with allocation restrictions, stipulations and complicated terms whilst also paying for these wines anywhere up to 24 months before we see them. Imagine our delight when some of their wines turned up on the Christmas Offers list last week, for less than we paid for them 2 years ago!
Anyway, we’re not bitter and we move on. We’ve all heard about people ‘diagnosing’ bone spurs to avoid going to war but it would seem they’re not the first to use a ‘note’ to their advantage. Our very own former PM, Sir Winston, received a note from Otto C. Pickhardt, M.D. on January 26, 1932, to circumvent Prohibition rules:
This is to certify that the post-accident convalescence of the Hon. Winston S. Churchill necessitates the use of alcoholic spirits especially at meal times. The quantity is naturally indefinite but the minimum requirements would be 250 cubic centimetres.
With power comes great irresponsibility, still.
Anyway, back to wine. We suggested a few new listings last week and now I can let you know about a few more:
First up, a low-alcohol Riesling. We’ve found the No & Lo sector a bit difficult to navigate and have tasted more than we’d have liked to try and find something that feels like it could almost be wine. We’ve got a couple in stock already but two weeks ago we tasted Walt LØ Riesling 0.5% – £11.49 which was a bit of a revelation. Riesling is a natural fit for a low alcohol wine, given they are often made at 8.5%, their fruit and acidity being constantly appealing. Often however, they can be too, too sweet, which is why this one was a revelation – fresh, crisp, light and fruity but with some crisp apple character and a hint of peach in the background, not at all bad.
Next up, a new beer. Herzoglich Bayerisches Brauhaus Tegernsee Tegernseer Hell – £3.60 is definitely easier to drink than it is to say! A few customers suggested we try this and so we did – for me it falls somewhere between Augustiner and Paulaner in style and is certainly refreshing!
Klippenkop Pinotage 2023 – £15.49 comes from Robertson Valley where the grapes are sourced from 22 different families. Ripe strawberry and juicy plum fruit character make it an easy-going style with plenty of appeal and a slightly richer finish – benchmark!
Two wines from Bordeaux next, one new and one a returner: Château Curton La Perriere 2020 – £18.29 which is 100% Merlot from 30 year old vines located about 15 kilometres from Saint-Émilion which gives us a wine with dark plum fruit with a touch of spice and nice silky tannins – perfect with a roast! Château La Fleur de Bouard 2014 – £44.00 is the returning hero. Owned by the same family as Chateau Angelus, this wine is always great value. A blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon it is very much the modern style of claret, really voluptuous on the medium to full bodied palate with black cherry and berry fruits, toasted spice, mocha and a hint of graphite. The tannins are oh so silky and it has an impressive velvety finish.
Finally, something that has been on the shelf for a while but I don’t think we have mentioned – Marqués de Murrieta Reserva 2016 – £44.00 this comes from the southernmost part of Rioja Alta from a great vintage. Dark cherry fruit character, some cedar notes and a touch of smoke. Full bodied and complex on the palate with spice and dark fruits once more finishing with enough tannin to keep it tidy – all a bit of a treat in a glass!
We won’t be tasting any of these this weekend because we will be exploring the great value that can be found in South Africa, away from Burgundy and Bordeaux.
De Wetshof Estate ‘Lesca’ Chardonnay 2023, Robertson, South Africa – £20.99 the name De Wetshof has been synonymous with the production of fine wines in South Africa since the 1970’s. Named after Danie de Wet’s wife, this is a lightly wooded Chardonnay, exuding lively aromas of citrus, green apple and butterscotch on the nose. With the elegance and intensity of great white Burgundy it has a complex, racy palate of lemon, peach and ripe apple flavours with nutty and mineral notes. Pork stuffed with prunes was the winery recommendation and we won’t argue with that.
Meerlust Red 2021 – £20.99 is a classic Bordeaux style blend of 32% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot. First released in 1985, which marked the first declassification of the Rubicon wine because the harvest quality that year did not meet the exacting quality standards for the flagship, nowadays the Red is in regular production and the quality remains tip-top. Aromas of cassis and plums drag you into an immediately appealing, medium-bodied red with crushed black fruit, a touch of vanilla spice and soft silky tannins. A great partner to a rack of lamb or other chunks of meat, of course…
And now we finish with one more birthday, which was actually yesterday, 16th October. Oscar Wilde would have been 171 years old and the British Library celebrated this by re-issuing his Readers Card which was revoked in June 1895 due to him having a criminal record – not before time, considering he died in November 1900!
Be yourself; everyone else is already taken – solid Wilde Wisdom!